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We are currently at Cascade Locks, Oregon, mile 2,155, enjoying rest and relaxation alongside the Columbia River. Below are a few tales from our travels through Oregon over the past two weeks.
We have updated our itinerary for Washington as well as our trail stats. Unfortunately, all of the public libraries in the counties we traveled through have been closed, so we have attempted to post as much as we can from our iPhone.
Enjoy!
Mile 1,965 – August 16, 2010
A gentle day to our bodies today as we had a morning stop into Elk’s Lake Resort. The highlight of our stop was not the arrival of my new shoes or our resupply package, nor the half-friendly smiles we received from the over worked summer staff, but the people we met lakeside while enjoying sitting on the porch. We struck up a conversation with Marla,[singlepic id=53 w=320 h=240 float=right] a therapeutic Yoga instructor who commented on Melissa as she hobbled by (the pads on the balls of Melissa’s feet have been bothering her), and began to tell us some tricks on stretching and treating sore feet. Before we knew it, we were all doing yoga poses on the deck of the resort and we are excited to get into a studio when we return.
[singlepic id=54 w=320 h=240 float=left]Moments after our yoga routine, we were greeted by two smiling fellas named Steve and Kurt. Steve and Kurt both work at Next Adventure, an outdoor gear store in Portland, and decided to come hike 200 miles of the PCT and give out trail magic. Their magic came in the best of ways, including new socks, hankerchiefs, spoons, and other outdoor swag (free gear) and of course food, cookies, chips, and fresh fruit.
After chatting with the fellas and a quick dip in the lake we were on our way to put in a few more miles. The afternoon was mellow and we logged a few miles past the serious mosquito-infested Sisters Mirror Lake Area to a small wooded campsite where we relaxed and did some eating, and, a new experience for the trail, watercoloring.
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~Swift
Mile 2,000.9 – Big Lake Youth Camp – August 18, 2010
Dry, rested, and resupplied, we smile after the chain of events that unfolded yesterday. It began as a typical day racing to packed and get on the trail, swatting and moving about anxiously, as we try to avoid being eaten by mosquitos. The trail began winding around the base of the South Sister. Through the meadows covered in lupine flowers, a gold tone from the rising sun lit the area including the glacier covered mountainside.
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We hiked before being greeted by Johnny Law and Missing Link, two NOBOs (north bound thru-hikers) who we haven’t seen since Mt. Whitney. Both of them had a bout with giardia and were off the trail for a while to recover. We walked and talked, catching up on the past 1,200 miles and many stories in between. We stopped at the Obsidian Falls where we ate and soaked our feet while admiring the obsidian that lay everywhere. It was incredible, pieces big and small, the black glass covered the trail and hillside.
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After a rest, we carried on through the lava fields with great views north of Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Jefferson, and even Mt. Hood. We quickly caught up with our pals and resumed hiking until we reached MacKensie Pass, where they set off for the town of Sisters. The time was 3:30 p.m. The storm clouds had been looking ominous and the ride to Sisters was tempting, but when Steve and Kurt appeared at the road after resting at the viewpoint, we decided to carry on, chatting and passing miles with two fellow hikers.
Just as we crested the top of the huge (2.4 mile) lava field the hail started, and at just the perfect time to take cover under a tree. We watched the marble-sized hail pelt the ground and the rain soak us before we had time to pull out our raincoats. A half-hour or so passed, and as it letup we walked, half-drenched, through the frozen pellets, smiling and hollering like kids playing outside. Another day for the storybooks.
~Swift
Mile 2,083 – Horse Camp – August 21, 2010
Our feet and legs are coated with a dark film from the fine dust as the trail has continued to get dustier with finer dirt. This all made sense to us, after we discovered a horse camp with 12 campsites, all with horse stables and stalls. Some stalls contained as many as four horses. All these four-footed hikers would have a dramatic impact churning up the trails.
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After filling our bottles, we were set to return to the trail to put up the tent and call it a night when we heard from the nearest site, “you hikers? Where you did you come from?” When Melissa quietly replied “Mexico,” the Womacks’ faces looked at us shocked. They asked us if we were hungry, and we warned they shouldn’t tempt us. Yet they insisted, and within moments we found ourselves sunk deeply in their camp chairs, smiling and chatting with the Womack Family of Newburg, Oregon. We enjoyed the delicious smelling and tasting T-Bone steaks grilled on the BBQ with their great company. We stayed up past hiker midnight (9:45 pm) conversing with Kassie, Daniel, Don, and Carrie about Oregon, their oldest boy, Gus, who served in Afganistan, and of course their 4 horses (Molly, Twister, Jazz and Bo) and Dogs, Bandit and (the cute yellow lab, whose name I forget!).
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They were such a fine family from rural Oregon, who knew the value of hard work, and reminded us the joys of family camping, and enjoying each other’s company. We are so grateful to have shared this experience with them. Thank you, Womack Family, for everything, including the trail mix and licorice. It warmed our hearts.
[singlepic id=66 w=320 h=240 float=left]The trail continued to pass dense forest vegetation as we neared Mt. Hood. As expected, we rounded a bend and found ourselves on a ridge line overlooking golden meadows below and the towering Mt. Hood in the distance. Our pace was quick as we heard about trail magic offered at Wapanitia Pass, Hwy 26. We arrived around 11:30 a.m. and enjoyed a soda from the cooler with Smiles, our Swiss friend, before phoning for a ride to the nearby cabin.
[singlepic id=65 w=320 h=240 float=right]Within 10 minutes, Walt and Kate arrived bearing a refill for the cooler and a lift down the hill. The graduate, a 2010 thru-hiker and recent graduate from USD, and his kind parents are hosting hikers who are passing through and we spent a little more than 2 hours enjoying fruit, hot dogs, and m&ms, while chatting about the hike and other hikers who have passed through. We would have spent the night but the Timberline Lodge breakfast buffet was shouting our names, LOUDLY!
~Swift & Buckeye
Buffet Before the Storm – August 22, 2010
[singlepic id=67 w=320 h=240 float=left]Waffles you make from fresh batter. An omelet bar where you put together the ingredients for your perfect omelet and a chef prepares it. Fresh fruit. Fresh baked goodies. Potatoes, sausage, bacon galore. Fresh squeezed orange juice.
I could go on and on and on about the buffet at Timberline Lodge. I wish I could magically re-appear there right now. At first I had an eerie feeling as we entered the lodge, but I later realized this was because the lodge was used in the making of the film “The Shining.” The ambiance completely changed when I locked eyes with the buffet.
I immediately started filling my plate with gorgeous food and as I returned to our table by the window, I was surprised to see our dear friends, Bill and Alex, walking up to the entrance! [singlepic id=68 w=320 h=240 float=right]We loved visiting with them during breakfast and sharing stories from the trail. They announced that they were very inspired by our journey and have decided to hike the state of Oregon next year! So awesome!
[singlepic id=69 w=320 h=240 float=left]We set off after brunch into the rain haze. We caught up with our friends, Johnny Law and Missing Link, who are from Portland. Johnny Law is quite witty and comments, “Welcome to the Northwest, which enjoys this weather six months of the year.” It was cold and we were drenched but we pushed on.
As we came around a bend in the trail, I rub my eyes because I start thinking I’m going a tad crazy when I see Maggie – Bill and Alex’s, dog running up the trail from the opposite way. But sure enough, Bill makes the turn next followed by Alex. We were trying to push it 31 miles that day after a late start to catch up with them at a car accessible campsite. We were worried we were not going to be able to make it so we were relieved when we saw our friends. They found where the PCT crossed a backroad and caught up with us. We enjoyed sandwiches with them before reluctantly pushing on in the cold rain.
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~Buckeye
Eagle Creek Falls Trail and Bridge of the Gods – August 22, 2010
We made it to the top of a ridge before it became completely dark and we set up camp on the side of the trail. I am so happy we did not go any farther because when we woke up, we were graced with a spectacular view of Mt St Helens, Mt Adams, and out in the distance, Mt Rainier!!! The fog in the evening hid this viewpoint.
We chose to hike the alternate route Eagle Falls Creek Trail into Cascade Locks as our guidebook notes this trail is filled with spectacular falls.
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Our favorite was Tunnel Falls where you actually walk behind a waterfall!
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When we arrived at Cascade Locks, we were in awe staring at Washington across the way! When we head out on August 25, we will be walking across the Bridge of the Gods – a steal bridge that at one time long ago was a natural bridge! I keep staring at this massive river crossing trying to imagine a huge piece of land arched across it.
Beauty continues to surround in the Northwest and we are crossing our fingers that the weather will remain nice for our final 508 miles. We won’t be passing through too many towns but will keep you all updated as much as possible and enjoy the final days of a truly remarkable journey.
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~Buckeye
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